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Visit to Priorat - Mas Doix

Visit to Priorat - Mas Doix

Founded in 1998 by the Doix and Llagostera families, the winery in the village of Poboleda (Priorat Spain) continues a tradition that began in 1850. In 1888, the wine of the early patriarch Juan Extrems Doix won the gold medal at the Barcelona World Exhibition.

Phylloxera caused an abrupt halt in viticulture and impoverished the region. Some of the first Carignan vines planted after the plague are now used for the extremely scarce 1902 Centenary Carignan. Grapes grown by the founders used to be sold to the local cooperative before they set up their own business.

Poboleda is one of the highest and coolest villages in Priorat. Valentí Llagostera says the dry cold northwest wind is responsible for the high acidity of the wine. The grapes ripen more slowly and the harvest usually starts a week later than in Gratallops.

In 2019, the partnership between Cliff Lede, a Canadian producer based in Napa Valley (owner of Cliff Lede Vineyards and Fel Wines) and Mas Doix began. They took a 50% stake in the Catalan winery and the influx of capital made it possible to build a new winery on the outskirts of Poboleda. The new building blends seamlessly with the stony landscape and the color of the llicorella stones so typical of the Priorat region.

The winery owns about 20 hectares of vineyards that are farmed organically with some biodynamic practices. Undoubtedly, the four-hectare Doix vineyard is its most prized asset, with Carignan vines planted in 1902 and 80-year-old Garnacha vines. Syrah is the only international grape they grow - it represents 10% of the blend of entry-level red wines Les Crestes and Salanques.

During the visit we tasted a nice selection of wines. Also some older vintages. In addition to the reds with varieties like Garnacha, Carignan and some Syrah, Mas Doix has expanded its range of white wines. Murmuri is predominantly Garnacha Blanca with three months of lees aging in stainless steel tanks, while the more complex Salix combines 20% Macabeo and 15% Pedro Ximénez with the Garnacha Blanca and lees aging in stainless steel tanks and oak barrels.

The wines we tasted:

Les Crestes

The Les Crestes uses grapes from younger vines. It is a blend of Garnacha with 20% Cariñena and 10% Syrah, aged in second year French oak for eight months.

Vintage 2019 (92 RP)
The Les Crestes shows in the glass a bright purple color with ruby hues with violet edges, good density.
On the medium(++) nose aromas of black and red fruits, plums and cherries, candied, with notes of wood, vanilla, mint and coffee, light spices of clove, with some freshness.
In the mouth dry, medium (+) body with medium (+) acidity and present but soft tannins. Flavors are reminiscent of the ose with a medium-long finish.

Vintage 2011 more sharp, leather and dark plums. Lightly smoky. Still kicking ass.
Vintage 2007 still great

Salanques

65% from 40-80 year old Grenache vines, 25% from 80 year old Carignan and 10% from 15 year old syrah. Fermentation of destemmed grapes in stainless steel tanks and wooden barrel. 14 months in new fine-grained French oak barrel (50% new and 50% two-year-old barrel).

Salanques 2018 (92 RP).
The Salanques yields a deep inky black, purplish red color.

On the medium(+) nose aromas of dark plums, raspberries and red currants with hints of licorice, young leather, eucalyptus, cedar, vanilla and licorice.

On the palate dry, medium(++) body with medium(+) acidity and medium(+) ripe tannins. Flavors of plum, blackberry, balsamic, lavender and spice. Concentrated and medium(++) length finish.

Salanques 2002
Still great in acidity and tertiary hints that stand out.

Doix

The Doix is made from 45% 80 year old Grenache and 25% from 100 year old Carignan vines. Fermentation of destemmed grapes in stainless steel tanks finished in wood. 16 months in a new barrel of French oak.

Doix 2017 (RP 94)
In the glass a deep ruby color with violet reflections.

On the medium(++) nose aromas of wild berries, red currants and blackberries with hints of menthol and eucalyptus, cocoa, cedar, vanilla and floral notes.

On the palate dry, full-bodied with high acidity and slightly astringent but warm tannins. Flavors of berries, blackberries, chocolate, balsamic, toast, aromatic spices and a nice texture. The finish is long with high aging potential.

Doix 2002
Still great with tertiary notes.

1902 - 2017 (96 RP)

The 1902 is made from very low yielding ancient vines of Carignan, planted in 1902 on slopes of very steep slopes at an altitude of 350/450 meters above sea level. The grapes are sorted by hand both in the vineyard and in the cellar to remove overripe grapes.

The wine has a maceration period of 4/5 weeks and then matures for 16 months in new, very fine-grained French oak barrels.

In the glass a deep dark crimson color with violet reflections.
On the medium(++) nose aromas of plums, blackberries and raspberries with hints of licorice, spices, smoke, cinnamon, dried figs, tobacco, cedar, violets and tar.
On the palate dry, full-bodied with medium (+) acidity and medium (+) fine-grained ripe tannins. Elegant and complex with dark grapes, chocolate, vanilla, jam with great depth. Perfect wine and better to keep patiently.

1903 - 2017 (95 RP)

Of the 1903 Centennial Garnacha Only 361 bottles are produced by this ultra-special, mind-boggling Grenache from 117-year-old vines. Grapes from the extremely low-yielding plants are sorted in two batches, fermented in a steel tank and then aged for 16 months in new French oak barrels before being bottled unfiltered.

In the glass a bright medium(+) ruby color.
On the medium(++) nose aromas of blackberries, ripe cherries and red currants with hints of smoke, coffee, cocoa, raisins, eucalyptus, spices and vanilla.
On the palate dry, full-bodied with medium (+) acidity and medium (+) tannins. In the mouth creamy and fleshy with ripe yammy fruit, spices with lots of layers in the wine. Keep it away for a few years or enjoy it now with a good decant.

Murmuri 2020

Murmuri is the first white wine from Mas Doix, a combination of white grapes dominated by white Grenache from old vineyards and dotted with Macabeo and another minority variety in the vineyard. The label is from a print made by Josep Subirats in 1985.

Vineyards are located at an altitude of 500-600 meters above sea level on slopes with pronounced slopes, with the characteristic slate soil called "licorella". The grapes come from vines between 20-25 years old, with a small but exceptional average production of 500 gr. per vine.

In the glass a bright citrus yellow color.
On the medium nose aromas of yellow apple, stone fruit and melon with hints of citrus, tropical fruit, white flowers and spices.
On the palate dry, medium bodied with light creaminess, lively acidity and nice freshness. Not a blockbuster but an easy going white Priorat. Very nice minerality and a reminder of the nose. Medium and fresh length finish.

Salix 2019 (92 RP)

The 2019 Salix is a new white blend of 67% Garnacha Blanca, 18% Macabeo and 15% Pedro Ximénez. The grapes are picked by hand. Transport to the winery is in small 10 kg boxes. The grapes are pressed immediately. This is followed by fermentation, which takes place half in stainless steel tanks and half in oak barrels. The 3 months aging on lees is also done in a perfect mix of stainless steel and oak barrels. The annual production is only 1,800 bottles.

In the glass a bright and brilliant straw yellow color.
On the medium (+) nose aromas of ripe yellow apples, honey and lemon with hints of melon, almonds, smoke, spices, light petrol and orange peel.
On the palate dry, medium (+) body with medium acidity, nice freshness and soft texture. Flavors are a reminder of the nose with a medium (+) intense finish.

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